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I Love Touring Italy – Genoa

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the Liguria region of northern Italy, commonly known as the Italian Riviera. This thin strip of land located on the Ligurian Sea, not far from Monaco and the French Riviera. While Liguria is by no means undiscovered, its crowds are much smaller than those next door. This beautiful region is home to many small towns or villages, and the international port city of Genoa, nearly smack dab in the center of the coast. It is sometimes beautiful, sometimes ugly city of about one thousand six hundred calls itself La Superba (the Proud). Be sure to read the other articles in this series: eastern Liguria, Western Liguria and Cinque Terre, five small sea villages, who just may steal your heart.

Because of its excellent location and great harbor, the city of Genoa existed for thousands of years. Over its long history of Genoa was destroyed on several occasions. Towards the beginning of the eleventh century the city of Genoa became the Republic of Genoa, an independent city state. At its peak this Republican-controlled Liguria, Piedmont, Sardinia and Corsica. Genoa was a major player in the Crusades, establishing colonies in the Middle East in the Aegean, in Sicily and North Africa. Genoese Crusaders brought home a green glass goblet from the Levant, which many Genoese consider to be the holy grail.

Times changed and by the seventeenth century Genoa was no longer a superpower. In 1797 Napoleon conquered Genoa and it was annexed to France a few years later. While Genoa is proud to have freed themselves from French rule shortly after it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Sardinia. Another proud moment in Genovese and Italian history occurred in 1860 when Giuseppe Garibaldi set out from Genoa with over a thousand volunteers to launch his successful campaign for a united Italy.

Genoa is home to so many attractions that we present a list, grouped by general area. Check out what you want to see and then with a map to plan your own route. We grouped the sites into three locations, south, north and the port area plus our starting point. When we say we believe south south of Caruggi, Genoa's medieval center, the largest such district in all of Europe. Its tiny cobblestoned streets are a-maze-Ing. Walk around in a couple hours, you will not be disappointed.

The twelfth century San Matteo Church just south of Caruggi contains grave of Andrea Doria, Genoa's second most famous sailor whose family ruled the area for several centuries back in time. The Piazza San Matteo was their trampled ground. The main palace was given as a gift to Andrea Doria for being such a good sailor, defeating many enemies. You should consider visiting several other churches south of Caruggi including the twelfth century Duomo (Cathedral) San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence) with its San Lorenzo Treasury Museum, which hosts a medieval silver and gold collection.

The twelfth century twin towers known as Porta Soprana mark the spot where an ancient Roman road into the city. According to legend, Christopher Columbus's father was a gatekeeper there. His alleged boyhood home is nearby. Some claim that it is a reconstruction, and only worth a few minutes of your time, if at all. But you should see the towers.

Teatro Carlo Felice, Genoa's opera house was originally built in the nineteenth century. While the famous opera composer Verdi spent about forty winters in Genoa, he had very little connection with this building. He refused to compose an opera for the 1892 commemoration of Columbus's first voyage to America, say that in an age of almost 80 he was too old. Therefore, sounds good to me, except that during the following year's highly successful comic opera Falstaff first opened. Every year the Niccolo Paganini Violin Contest held in this opera house.

Now we move north of Caruggi, Genoa's medieval center. We begin the same way as our southern tour ended by looking at the palaces. Via Garibaldi is a street chock full of palaces, I counted fourteen but I may have missed some small. Let us look at three of them. The Sixteenth Century Palazzo Doria Tursi is the largest palace in the street. Made for a Genovese banker it later belonged to Doria family before becoming the town hall. The Sixteenth Century Palazzo Bianco (White Palace) was given to the city of Genoa in 1894 on condition that it becomes an art gallery. The nearby seventeenth century Palazzo Rosso (Red Palace) has also been an art museum hosting works by Titian, Van Dyck and many others.

San Siro Genoa's oldest church, the city's cathedral from the fourth to ninth century. As befits its age it is dark inside. The sixteenth century Baroque Bascilica of the Most Holy Saint Annunziata was built outside the city walls. It has a beautiful dome and lots and lots of great frescoes.

Genoa contains several distinctive transportation methods is worth taking for their unique views. The Genova-Casella Railway runs from the northeast Piazza Manin center through the hilly, rugged and scenic landscape around city to the small town of Casella, population about three thousand, some nine miles (fourteen km) north-east. Genoa three funicular railways (cable car) systems each offer a fantastic views of the mountains that surround the city.

And now to the port. Even if you do not have to visit the ports, you really should see the port of Genoa. It is the largest port in all of Italy, handle a full 10% of all port terminals in the country. It is pretty safe, especially if you do not wander around deserted areas at night. Since the 1992 celebration of Christopher Columbus 'First voyage to America (he did not discover this hardly uninhabited part of the world) has become a major cultural center. In October the Salone Nautico Internationale (International Boat Show), Europe's largest taking place. We will make a few stops to see some of the highlights starting with Il Bigo west of Caruggi and work our way north.

Il Bigo is a characteristic monument built for the 1992 Columbus commemoration. Take Bigo Panoramic Elevator for a unique view of Genoa and its surroundings. If you wish, you can ice skate in winter on the ice rink next door.

On the Acquario Genova (Genoa Aquarium) is the largest in Europe and number two in the world, after Osaka, Japan. This is one of the most visited museums in all Italy. Its huge tanks reproduce the environment in the Mediterranean and the oceans and contains over six hundred species. There's even a hummingbird room. You Galata Sea Museum shows the development of the port and city from the late Middle Ages to the present. In its Sala della Tempesta (Tempest Room) a ship simulator lets visitors experience the thrill by navigating a small boat through a heavy storm.

What about food? Liguria is quite famous for its pesto, often claimed to be the best in the world. It is easy to do, take the nearest mortar and pestle and grind together basil, olive oil, pine nuts, garlic and Parmesan cheese. Do not break a Ligurian heart, do not it in a blender. Serve with fresh pasta. And do not forget the wine.

Let us suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Zuppa di Acciughe (Anchovy Soup). Then try Cima alla Genovese (Cold stuffed breast of veal.) For dessert indulge yourself with Amaretti (Almond Cookies.) Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including the local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick review of Liguria wine. Liguria has not a lot of room for winemaking. It ranks 19: e among the 20 Italian regions for the area devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. Approximately 34% of its wine is red or praise? leaving 66% white. The region produces eight DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which can be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high quality wine. Approximately 14% of Ligurian wine bears DOC designation.

Val Polcevera DOC is the only DOC wine in the Genoa area. It seems to be a catch bag classification; There are eight different styles, many have subdivisions. Red, white, praise? Dry, sweet, quiet, roaring, sparkling, you name it they have it. But you'll probably have to visit Liguria or some adjacent areas of Italy to taste any of them. To tell the truth there are many good reasons to visit this lovely area.

About the Author

Over the years Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, and yet he prefers fine Italian, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and good company. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for the time being he can eat and drink what he wants, in moderation. He loves teaching a variety of computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. Visit his new wine, diet, health, and nutrition website www.wineinyourdiet.com and his Italian food website www.fooditalyfood.com.